Food | AT THE MARKET
Heirloom Tomato Judged ‘Too Beautiful to Eat’ Eaten Anyway
The Brandywine, briefly displayed on a velvet cushion, was consumed at 2:15 p.m. by its grower, who called the decision “agonizing but correct.”
A two-pound Brandywine tomato that judges at Saturday’s farmers’ market declared “too beautiful to eat” was eaten approximately three hours later by the woman who grew it, in what witnesses describe as a moment of great dignity.
The tomato, grown by retired schoolteacher Verbena Cloche, took Best in Show, Best Slicing Variety and the People’s Choice ribbon, the first such sweep since the Great Pepper of 2016.
“Everyone kept saying, ‘You can’t eat that, it belongs in a museum,’” Ms. Cloche said. “But tomatoes don’t belong in museums. I taught fourth grade for thirty years. I know what happens to things you keep on a shelf.”
At 2:15 p.m., Ms. Cloche sliced the tomato on a paper plate, salted it, and shared it with whoever was standing nearby. Nineteen people received a piece. Several wept, though accounts differ on whether from emotion or because Ms. Cloche also brought onions.
“It tasted like August,” said one recipient, staring into the middle distance. “It tasted like being ten.”
Clementine Rye covers food for The Cozy Town Times and can usually be reached at the bakery, second table from the window.